Obsession
So, right now I'm completely obsessed with this rig at the Boulder Fields. We've (couple of us) talked about it for years but haven't really put too much effort into. Like most things, once you really try then, more often than not, things start to come together. I started trying this one on Tuesday and everyday since then have put in at least 2 hours of effort into it, after work.
At first it felt impossible, like really. After trying all sorts of whacked out beta things started to come together. Progress.
Tried it a good bit yesterday and was able to match, midway out the lip, and move to the next hold, a sharp, small crimp...that was about it though.
Today, with the colder temps was a different story. No need to match today....just pinch the hell out of the sloper I'm on in the pic below and reach out to the crimp. Solid. Then it was a question of "now what?"
The answer was pretty simple really, cut the feet, hold the swing (painful) and get right foot back on. After a couple of tries I was able to figure out the tension/body position needed to hold that damn swing...a good feeling. A pretty freaking hard move comes next, one I'm not quite sure about, altho I think I know what to do. Figured out good beta for the very end so...
I guess the process will continue till it's done. I will say this, and I hate to spray or whatever, but this is definitely one of the more difficult, technical, and funky problems I've ever worked on. Will definitely be a classic. Super psyched about it and continuing the process of figuring it all out and then trying to link.
You'll have to excuse all that rambling/self promotion, like I said I'm super pumped about this line.
Oh and thanks Dean for the psych and taking a few shots!
Word.
Here's a bit of the sequence, the first part of the first crux...
